The Caucasus is the region where the borders between the Ottoman, Persian and Russian empires, as well as local kingdoms, were drawn and re-drawn several times across the centuries. It is home to many ethnical groups, who were heavily influenced by their various conquering kingdoms but at the same time, were able to develop unique identities, as well as preserve ancient customs and traditions. In terms of religion, Armenia, Georgia and the Russian region of North Ossetia are mostly Orthodox Christian. Russia's North Caucasus (with exception of North Ossetia) is mostly Sunni Muslim. Azerbaijan is mostly Shia Muslim but has a strong culture of secularism inherited from Soviet times. While travelling here expect to meet friendly locals, eat food like none other on earth and witness breathtaking mountain vistas. The arcane, expensive and bureaucratic visa procedures are becoming gradually less of a burden, as are crooked police. However, sufficient blights remain to make this far from the easiest region to navigate. The old ways of the Soviet Union are never far away when dealing with any kind of official, including immigration officers and police. And be very, very careful before you enter an area which is controlled by the Russian-backed local militia or Russian border troops of the separatist regions in Georgia and by the Armenian-backed local militia of the separatist region in Azerbaijan.